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REPORT FROM MEXICO    MARIBETH MELLIN
Let's sea: Spectacular beach getaways in Mexico


By Maribeth Mellin

July 20, 2008

The call comes at least once a month. The question is always the same. A friend, acquaintance or stranger wants to know where to go in Mexico.

Often it's their first time venturing past Tijuana, and they know little about mainland Mexico. They're worried about water, food and safety and can't believe I travel all over the country alone. Truth is, I usually feel safer in Mexico than at home.

Granted, the drug wars have changed my attitude somewhat, and there are places I'd rather not visit at the moment.

(In Tijuana, an increase in violent crime included 15 reported homicides in two days earlier this month, some of which have been linked to organized crime.)

It makes sense to follow the news if you're headed to Mexico – just as you would if when traveling anywhere.

But there are destinations in Mexico to visit if you're interested in culture, gastronomy, archaeology and art – or just the perfect beach getaway. Thousands of first-timers have checked out the following destinations and become hooked on Mexico.

Puerto Vallarta: Fabulous food, from simple grilled fish on the beach to sublime rack of lamb in a candlelit courtyard. Dozens of shops and galleries selling collector-quality folk and fine art on downtown's narrow rocky streets. Artists, fruit vendors and intriguing sculptures along the seaside streets. Budget and boutique hotels in downtown and along several beach areas. Plenty of family-oriented resorts, laid-back beach hotels and celebrity hideaways. Great golf, surfing, horseback riding and side trips to mountain villages. The perfect all-in-one intro to vacationing in Mexico.

Riviera Maya: Currently Mexico's fastest-growing destination, with entire resort communities rising along the Caribbean coastline from Cancún to Tulum. Multigenerational families enjoy enormous all-inclusive resort compounds with a Disney-like sense of Mexico. Big spenders check out the recently opened Rosewood Mayakoba and Mandarin Oriental. Hipsters head for the clubs and one-off hotels in Playa del Carmen. Diversions include hiking around Maya archaeological sites at Tulum and Cobá, diving and swimming in freshwater cenotes (sinkholes), snorkeling with turtles at Akumal.

Mérida: A great home base for those who enjoy driving around on their own. The city is best on Sundays, when streets around the main plaza and colonial-era church are closed. Chichén Itzá, Uxmal and dozens of Maya villages are within a few hours' drive, and explorers can dine and sleep in style in restored haciendas scattered around the area. From here drivers can move on to Campeche, a gorgeous walled city on the Gulf of Mexico that has yet to become overrun by tourists.

Michoacán: As states go, this one has enough natural and cultural attractions for multiple return visits. There's the colonial city of Morelia (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the many indigenous folk art villages around Lake Pátzcauro, and the annual monarch butterfly migration to the Sierra mountains. Tourism is growing here, but the area has yet to become homogenized. Particularly popular for Day of the Dead ceremonies.

Oaxaca: The first place I ever visited alone in Mexico was Oaxaca, where I took buses to the archaeological sites at Monte Albán and Mitla, filled duffle bags with woven rugs, carved animals and pottery from the crafts villages around the countryside, lingered for hours at cafes by the plaza and generally enjoyed one of my most memorable vacations. Oaxaca would still be my first choice for anyone interested in culture, were it not for the political demonstrations that have troubled the city in recent years. The situation appears calm now, and I would happily return soon. Wary first-timers might want to try Michoacán instead.

Mexico City: Yes, it's crowded, smoggy, corrupt and edgy. But Mexico City is one of the world's great metropolises, with outstanding museums, architecture, art, music – everything you'd want in a city. Staying in a regentrified neighborhood like Polanco, Roma or La Condesa makes the city feel less overwhelming and puts you near some of the trendiest restaurants and clubs. You'll need to hone your street smarts and take certain precautions (use radio or hotel taxis, stick to well-lit streets at night, don't flash cash and jewelry). But the benefits are well-worth the effort. Mexico City is a microcosm of all that's wonderful, exciting and mystical about the land of Mexico.


Maribeth Mellin is the author of “The Unofficial Guide to Mexico's Best Beach Resorts.”






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