Forget the frozen yogurts of the 1980s and 1990s, with their molar-achingly sweet rum-fudge-ripple and cake-batter flavors. A new generation of tart, chic swirly treats has appeared on the frozen yogurt tundra. Here are a few shops offering this new-fangled fro-yo, which runs about $3 for a small topless serving.

PINKBERRY

209 5th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter; (619) 231-4475

Tongues were hanging out for months in anticipation of the arrival here of this frozen yogurt emporium, which has achieved cult-like status since it opened its doors in Los Angeles in 2005.

Pinkberry offers three flavors – plain, coffee and green tea – that can be augmented with toppings including coconut, fresh berries and nuts, and cereals such as Cap'n Crunch and Cocoa Pebbles. The coffee flavor has a smooth java taste, and I appreciated the green tea's citrusy notes after tasting green-tea yogurts that were downright agricultural.

However, dispensing frozen concoctions, no matter how creamy and delicious, is not rocket science. There can be no explanation for the committee it took to execute my small cup of swirled coffee and plain sans toppings, nor the fact I was charged a dollar more than my companion, who ordered the same thing, only unswirled.

When I balked, the bolder of the frogurt baristas (what do you call them, anyway?) said she could charge my friend an extra dollar if that would make me happy. A new location is long overdue in Hillcrest, but it will be a frosty day before I visit Pinkberry again.

RED BERRY FROZEN YOGURT

3860 Convoy St., Kearny Mesa; (858) 571-7947

Tucked in a strip mall on bustling Convoy Street is some of the best new-fangled frogurt in town. Inside the shop, you feel like you've stepped onto a set for the original “Star Trek,” what with the mirrored and brushed stainless-steel walls, globule hanging lamps and white egg-cup chairs.

Brownie points go to the smiling counter helpers, who cheerfully let you taste aplenty (plain, mild green tea, blueberry, strawberry, peach). But cut to the chase and try the mango, which is smooth, tart and fruity.

RED MANGO

Mission Valley Westfield Shoppingtown; 1827 India St., Little Italy; 2031 San Elijo Ave., Cardiff.

South Korea's largest purveyor of “authentic” frozen yogurt has opened 130 stores worldwide since 2002, including a stylish cafe in Mission Valley that is bathed in warm tones with soda-parlor chairs.

Red Mango boasts that its tart product has no preservatives, artificial colors or flavors, and meets National Yogurt Association criteria for live-culture yogurt. There are just two puckery tastes: original, which looks and tastes exactly like plain yogurt that just happens to be frozen, and green tea, a grayish-green concoction with a very strong matcha green-tea flavor. Customers can jazz up the yogurt with toppings of fresh fruit, berries, nuts, granola, mochi and coconut.

YOLICIOUS

1021 Market St., East Village; (619) 238-1125.

Before you start heaping on the gummy bears or chocolate-covered raisins, Yolicious claims its Italian-style product has only 13 calories per ounce. But this frogurt needs all the adornments it can get.

Lackluster sellers chocolate and green tea were replaced recently by strawberry and cappuccino; there's also the ubiquitous plain. Two visits to this shop did not alter the conclusion that this frozen concoction has something funky going on. The plain tastes vitamin-y, the strawberry bypassed tart and went straight to sour, and the cappuccino tasted like a poorly made cup of Folgers.

YOGOTANGO

711 4th Ave., Gaslamp Quarter; (619) 696-7700.

Peach is the best-seller in this spacious, spotless shop. On a recent visit, it was also one of the few flavors that was actually up and pouring. I would have loved to sample the wild cherry, strawberry or chocolate, but those machines were out of commission.

I contented myself with the peach, which was peachy, and the vanilla, which, hard to believe, was even more face-scrunchingly tart than the plain. I also tried the coffee, which had all the appeal of a cup of earth.

Despite plenty of seating and good people-watching, you can't stay long in this fro-yo bistro without losing your hearing and your sanity because of the deafening soundtrack.